Backpacking the Sisquoc River Loop

by Brian · Published November 7, 2025 · Updated November 8, 2025

This is the map for the entire route discussed in this post. To Export GPX files, click on the three horizontal bars in the upper right hand corner of the map and select Export selected map data... To see full screen, click here (opens in new window)

Id been long wanting to come explore the San Rafael wilderness. I’d gone around it on bicycle, but the mysteries of the deep canyons below were calling. The weather report looked just right for Janet and I to hike this hidden gem in Central California.

Photos:

Manzana creek was flush with water. That would change later on!

Good quality trail leaving from Nira trailhead.

Strava Comments:

Janet W.

You're right, my new pink hiking shirt looks good in the photos, and so does the trail we hike on the first day!

Ride Stats:

Elapsed Time	Moving Time	Distance	Average Speed	Max Speed	Elevation Gain	Calories Burned
03:36:30 hours	02:33:13 hours	11.85 km	12:56 min/km	4:32 min/km	109.00 meters	717 kcal

It was a few easy miles to the schoolhouse - and then the bushwhacking and route finding began. We almost turned back because the bottom of the Sisquoc River was dry! We hiked 7 miles and agreed that if we didn’t find water by then, we would turn around (it would be 14 miles total for the day, but at least we knew there was water). Right at the turn around, I found a puddle. It was murky, but enough for us to drink. We decided to continue. As we moved UP the river, we found more places where there was water above ground. It is a little counter intuitive, but further downstream can actually be drier that upstream. I think the river “goes underground” in places. Regardless, we were more cautious with water after that and I put some in a zip lock bag for safe keeping.

Photos:

The first couple miles today were easy on a ranch road easement

Donkeys and horses wandered the property

This is the historic schoolhouse. It is hard to believe that 100 people lived out here in 1900. It seems so remote.

Inside the schoolhouse. It was clear that it had been restored, as it had a new-ish looking roof!

I like reading the register entries of people who have come before.

The first water we found after leaving the Manzana watershed - out at "Water Canyon" - aptly named!

Bear evidence. We would see a lot of bear prints and even more bear poop. They had eaten all of the juniper berries, I can tell you! I'm not sure what they are eating now. The juniper berries seem to have a laxative effect.

We did not stay here, but I took this photo to document the camp. There are over a dozen camps along the route and I took notes about the water status. When back to internet, I will update the LPNF water status web page for each camp. This was the one official-looking camp that was not documented on the website.

We had to cross the riverbed several dozen times.

It was surprisingly warm at Abel camp. We had a quiet night and enjoyed gazing into the flames of our campfire. A full moon helped the ambiance!

Strava Comments:

Janet W.

Those 2 donkeys were pretty cute and friendly. And nice photo of my climbing down the bank. It shows how steep the banks were - and there were a LOT of them. Yes, we saw lots and lots of animal poops, but no animals excepts birds and bugs.

Bas V.

I'm glad to see those donkeys, I was here two years ago and they looked absolutely miserable. They seem to be doing a lot better

Janet W.

Bas Vink , it good to hear from you. One donkey did have an eye infection, but they were friendly. We saw a nice horse too and heard a quad in the distance on the ranch road. Did you do a backpack out there?

Paula G.

what a nice hiking area....but the donkeys take the cake here.

Ride Stats:

Elapsed Time	Moving Time	Distance	Average Speed	Max Speed	Elevation Gain	Calories Burned
10:02:07 hours	05:28:37 hours	24.92 km	13:11 min/km	6:47 min/km	508.00 meters	1,727 kcal

The last 7 hours of yesterday’s hike had been tedious rite finding and bushwhacking- so we were mentally prepared for it today. I was awestruck by the amount of bear and coyote poop out here. It’s funny because I tend to think that I go to remote places in the Sierra… but there is more evidence of wildlife out here! Also, since we were worried about finding water, we would pay careful attention to the consistency of the poop and watch the birds and look at the animal footprints in the sand. All gave us clues about where water might be found. Janet did well hiking on the unruly terrain. The poles help both of us keep our balance and avoid sliding down slopes or tripping over river rocks. Her knees held up well; only 2 ibuprofen today.

Photos:

Sometimes it was hard to decide: walk in the river bed or tromp through the weeds ?

This is what you could encounter if you decided to tromp through weeds.

Ok, this was funny! This JOKO guy has been out here a lot. I’d say he has signed this register 6 times since 2021. This was the funniest exchange

The trail quality was getting better. I took this photo through my polarizing sunglasses

Camp with flowing water! We cooked hot broth. We didn’t bring enough food, so I only ate about 2000 calories today (and only have 1500 left for tomorrow- and about 60g of that is carb). Dramatically had to reduce insulin today.

Strava Comments:

Janet W.

Thanks for building up a few risky spots on the high ledge trail so I could cross safely! That high trail was better than climbing through scratchy bushes. Best scenery today too of the deep canyon, stream and cottonwood trees!

Nancy P.

I prefer avoiding stickers in my socks and scratches on my legs 😉 and also hotel rooms 😬

Ride Stats:

Elapsed Time	Moving Time	Distance	Average Speed	Max Speed	Elevation Gain	Calories Burned
09:11:03 hours	04:35:22 hours	19.71 km	13:58 min/km	8:52 min/km	703.00 meters	1,483 kcal

Last day of the backpacking trip. This was a really great getaway- surprisingly perfect weather for November, saw zero people on the trail days 1,2, and 3 (saw two guys hiking in today as we were leaving). There was just barely enough water in some places - keeping that “adventure” feel. We had excellent camp sites and I am finding more and more that Im happiest when in these remote locations.

Janet hiked quickly! I think that her training in Peru recently made her very fast on the trail. I had gone to take a peek at "Alcove" camp - and she walked by, getting ahead without me knowing it. I went back and saw her distinctive footprints in the sand.

We drove back to go to my niece and nephew’s flag football games… and we got dinner at an excellent Sushi place. The phones ringing and door dash people coming in and the sounds and smells were overwhelming when juxtaposed with the tranquil waterfall noise, leaves rustling in the breeze, or hawks calling - the main sounds we experienced during the 4 day sojourn. Glad we have spaces like this so close to home.

Photos:

Part of my documentation for campsites.

Water ✅

The area by white ledge and also the Manzana narrows was some of the best.

The water was crystal clear on this side of the divide. And it was flowing. Much of the water in the Sisquoc watershed was stagnant and sometimes cloudy.

And then everything changes. Lots of stimulation and although the “luxuries” of civilization are nice, my heart is back in the quiet mountains. I feel more and more at home each time we go out there.

Strava Comments:

Janet W.

Thanks for planning a remote backpack trip for us! And thanks for waiting for me a lot and driving the car half a mile to the finish point. It actually was good to eat less the last 2 days. We both finished with one bar!

Ian G.

❤️

terri W.

You find so many great remote hikes!! Happy to hear Janet’s in lock step, looks challenging. But trails are so much nicer than bushwhacking’