09/08/2023 Bikepacking Spain Day 31 : The Day of Many Faces

The day of many faces started out hot and humid. As we did our first descent, though, it was cool enough to put on a down jacket. --

We struck out upon arrival at our first 3 coffee bars (each tiny town had a bar, but all were closed for one reason or another). --

We carried on, and finally found an open coffee spot. I used Jonathan Spiros' technique of ordering an espresso. Actually, just to be safe, I said "un café... o sea... un espresso para mi.. y un café americano para mi esposa." She didn't smile, but she made the drinks just right. At this shop, we met a woman named Leslie doing a 7 day "self guided" tour for $1000USD. They schlep her stuff and she rides and it includes her hotels for 7 nights. Not a bad deal if you consider that hotels have been running about $100 per night (up from about $70 we paid in 2019). She is the only person they are supporting, so there isn't much profit for them. She's having a great trip on her Co-Motion with couplers. --

Janet planned the Machucos climb for us this year! Thanks Janet! I had a little FOMO when we climbed a neighboring climb (that was also gorgeous) last time. We climbed it the same day that Tadej Pogacar was the first to the top of THIS climb. Luckily, Janet wanted to do this one, and I admire and appreciate her for plugging challenges like this one into our route! This section she is walking is 28% grade! This hill made me reconsider my 34 x 42 low gear. --

The top of one pass had a memorial to Gonzalo Barquin. I hadn't heard of him until today, but he was top 15 in a couple of the grand tours back in the 70s. --

Arriba, pues! On the really steep sections, I ran back down the hill several times and rode Janet's bike up so she could walk instead of push. The tow rope wasn't compatible with our different riding styles on terrain this steep. I came back this time to find her pedaling up a 22% section! I really like her 30x52 setup and now regret selling my comparable cassette! She worked so hard to achieve this summit. We were both impressed that the tour racers would climb this. We wondered what gear ratios they might be using. --

Soaked in sweat and sticky, we neared the top! --

When we got to the summit of the pass, the day showed a new face. Even though a thunderstorm hadn't been predicted 30 minutes ago, a page refresh showed a dense storm cell headed for us - right as we were on the summit! It was pretty intimidating and we were SO lucky to have this temporary tent which was set up for a bike event this weekend. Actually, we think we will sleep here - it is as good as a hotel with more chairs than our usual room, more trash can space, a bathroom, boards that work as tables, an ephemeral shower (as seen in the video), and a familiar repertoire of flies which is a common feature of campsites and hotels alike. Note that the noises that sound like electricity are me overriding the profanity words being used. --

Wow, that's some rain 😁

Janet W.