11/07/2023 Bikepacking Morocco Day 91 : Facts about Morocco


Ouch! My Achilles hurts! Since the striking encounter with the geologist kids, I had a niggle in my lower left calf that developed into something real this morning. I made a segment called “Running from Kids” in the hopes that I’d at least get a KOM for this suffering… but it turns out that there were 6 other people who were more scared of these kids than me!

Today on the road, I met another cyclist named Omar. He had a Scott bike, and I asked if cycling was popular here. He said “no,” and that he was able to get this bike from the USA only because he works in customs. They is now a factory in Morocco making “s***” bikes, so Morocco taxes imported bikes heavily to encourage people to buy locally. I asked him if kids threw rocks at him, and he said, “no because I have a Moroccan face.” He made a grisly bear form with his face and arms to demonstrate how I need to approach the next pack of kids.

I met Mohammed today. Not THAT Mohammed. Mohammed is kind of like Santa Claus in the US. Every store or mall has a Santa Claus impersonating the real guy up North… and after I met my 3rd Mohammed impersonator today, I decided that one could hedge their bets and say, “nice to meet you, Mohammed,” instead of asking for a name. This Mohammed went straight for the real question: “What do you think of the war between Israel and Palestine?” I was sitting on the curb, and jumped up quickly - curious to know what he thought. I haven’t read the news enough to understand what is going on. I had noticed in Spain that all the graffiti I had seen pertaining to the matter was pro-Palestine. Also, I had seen two Spain protests (also carrying the Palestinian flag). He was a teacher, and he refused to let me cheat with my phone translate app. Even I understood the French coming out of my app, but he said it wasn’t good. Either that, or he was afraid that my phone would record him having an opinion on Israel/Palestine. He took an ambivalent stance. “It is bad that the Israel attacked the Palestine.” “It is bad that the Palestine attacked the Israel.” True to form, he corrected my mistakes in French as I unsuccessfully tried to dig deeper into his opinion, or anything about what is happening. What is the stance in the USA, I wonder? I’ve heard that the US gives more money to tiny Israel than any other country. Is that still true?

I’m on a fast track to learning; many of you probably already know this stuff, but others can learn along with me. Those super narrow and crowded streets in Fez I told you about? That is called a “Medina”. It sucks for getting anywhere quickly; today I learned that the idea was to protect cities from invaders. Before drones, I could see this being a very successful strategy. Speaking of Drones, they are illegal in Morocco; I decided not to chance bringing mine to this country that is about the same size as California. When I entered Morocco, I was about the same latitude as Nacimiento Ferguson road on the Cali coast. Now my latitude is the same as San Clemente, CA. Did you know It is actually possible to ride your bicycle from Spain to Morocco! Spain has 5 exclaves in Morocco, and one of them is Ceuta - so I could have taken the boat from Spain to Spain and then ridden across an international border on the African continent. Ceuta is tiny; I’ll post a screenshot.

With the latitude as a frame of reference, it maybe isn’t too surprising now to see some of the photos I’m posting today. I’m slightly guilty of thinking Morocco was mostly camels and desert (though there will be a lot of that up ahead too). Today felt like i was riding through the campus of some Ivy League school in the fall. While we are comparing Morocco to the West of the US, did you know that Morocco was the first to recognize the US as an independent nation?

Morocco still has me a little surprised in that once you’re on the paved roads, it is more developed than I had imagined. Morocco, Guatemala, and Belize all have similar GDPs per person… but Morocco so far feels more well-to-do. So far, there has been much less trash on the side of the road (see my photo for bags of cleanup). I am guessing that the Southern portion is going to be the other side of that balance. By the time I (arguably) leave Morocco, my latitude will be that of Guadalajara, Mexico.

Photos:



Morocco’s flag. The five pointed star probably represents the five pillars of Islam, which according to Wikipedia are: “Muslim creed, prayer, charity to the poor, fasting in the month of Ramadan, and the pilgrimage to Mecca for those who are able”. This all sounds good to me. Especially pilgrimages!

Goodbye Fez. I didn’t especially want to come to Fez, but glad I saw what I did of the Medina.

Me and Omar.


This photo is partly for Janet. She is always interested in the trash situation is various countries. I noticed that for miles, there had been trash cleanup along this road. I felt at liberty to eat my canned tuna and then deposit the cans as I went by these bags. No recycling in Morocco yet.



I got another room to stay in. It will be 30F tonight here in the mountains and I am with my summer bag. Plus, I made the mistake of drinking “fresh squeezed” orange juice this morning. Being polite has its costs, and I got sick pretty fast. Janet knows about the orange juice thing, as we both got terribly sick in Mexico the same way. This time, I am immediately on Cipro. I want to go back to eating sterile food, but canned items are shockingly expensive. Feeing shaky and feverish now; hoping the meds kick in fast.


Morocco has the middle, the high, and the anti Atlas Mountains. First up is the middle, which we are entering here. If I can stay healthy, I hope to journey the other two as well. I am a bit worried about the cold temps. The high atlas takes me to 10,000’. I will try my best to enjoy these mountains. A slight warming is coming, but I am a bit late, really.

Here is that map of the Spain Exclave I was telling you about.


Strava Comments:



Carol D.
I always learn from your posts Brian . What was that dance video though?

Martin G.
These Stravelogs have been so much fun to read! Stay safe:-)

Mark G.
Hope the achilles situation clears up. You are chewing up some miles and elevation. I will guess that there will be some pretty flat mila ahead.

Tony B.
I’m enjoying all of your stories and pictures of your travels in Morocco. I’m also following a gal on Strava who was in France then Spain and now Morocco. She’s a week or so in front of where you are at. Truly beautiful place. And yes you have a lot of flat terrain coming!

Janet W.
It's a treat to get to video chat with you every day, and I'm glad you are feeling a little better. Thank goodness you had the choice of a cabin instead of camping outside! Everyone you meet seems so friendly and interested in conversation, even if some of it gets lost in translation. Less trash = more tourist visits = good for everyone!

Jennifer G.
All I will say about the Israeli/Palestine war is that bombing and killing thousands upon thousands of children is a sign that humanity has failed

Ali G.
I can add to what my mom mentioned that the majority of UN members stated recognize Palestine as a country, it is critical to see the current violence within the context of the 75 last years, that every day the US continues to arm Israel to drop bombs on Gaza and continue building walls and a system where some people have fewer rights based on how they were born is a horrible thing. As Americans we need to do better to hold our government accountable

Ali G.
You may also be interested in former president Jimmy Carters book: Palestine peace not apartheid

Ride Stats:

Elapsed Time Moving Time Distance Average Speed Max Speed Elevation Gain Calories Burned
07:10:44
hours
05:00:34
hours
84.22
km
16.81
km/h
62.31
km/h
1,549.30
meters
2,428
kcal

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